How To Start Petunias From Seeds

How To Start Petunias From Seeds​

Petunias are so reliable and have such a wide variety of uses that it’s no wonder it’s one of the most popular garden flowers today. It’s simple to buy a couple of petunia seedlings to fill one planter, but for mass plantings and garden edging, growing petunias from seed is the way to go. You’ll save money because of the sheer number of plants you need, plus you’ll have a much wider range of flowers to choose from. Garden centers only carry a few varieties already sprouted and growing, but you can find petunia flower seeds for different sized plants, in almost every color of the rainbow.

Starting Petunia 

The most important point to remember when learning how to start petunias from seeds is that these are sun loving plants. 

SOIL MIX FOR FLOWER SEEDS

SEED STARTING MIX

 (SAME CAN BE USED FOR ALL SEEDS)

1. 30 PERCENT EACH OF COCOPEAT, VERMICOMPOST AND GARDEN SOIL
2. ADD 5 PERCENT EACH OF PERLITE AND VERMICULITE
3. ADD 50 GRAM EACH OF BONE MEAL AND NEEM CAKE TO EVERY 1 KG OF POTTING MIX
4. SIEVE THE MIX WELL THROUGH A FLOUR SIEVE AND USE THE FINE MIX THAT COMES OUT OF THE SIEVE. 
5. STERLIZE THE POT WITH HOT BOILING WATER 
6. STERLIZE SOME BROKEN PIECES OF POTS
7. SAVE A SMALL PART OF THE MIX TO SPRINKLE ON THE SEEDS LATER
8. COVER THE HOLES OF THE STERLIZED POTS WITH BROKEN PIECES OF POTS AND ALSO ADD A LAYER OF CHARCOAL OVER IT
9. FILL THE POT WITH THE MIX AND TAP IT DOWN LIGHTLY 
10. POUR BOILING WATER OVER THE POT TO STERLIZE THE MIX 
11. KEEP IT TO REST FOR 3 -4 HOURS 
12. CHECK THE SOIL WITH UR FINGER AND CHECK IF THE MIX HAS TOTALLY COOLED DOWN
13. SPRINKLE SEEDS OVER IT MAINTAINING EQUAL SPACE
14. FOR VERY TINY SEEDS MIX THE SEEDS WITH SOME OF THE POTTING MIX WHICH HAS BEEN SAVED AND THEN SPRINKLE THIS ON THE POT
15. FOR BIGGER SEEDS USE A PENCIL TIP TO MAKE SMALL FURROW ABOUT HALF A CM DEEP AND PLACE SEEDS AT EQUAL DISTANCE
16. COVER THE SEEDS WITH THE POTTING MIX USING THE SIEVE 
17. DO NOT PAT THE MIX DOWN NOW
18. DO NOT ADD TOO MUCH MIX TO COVER IT JUST ENOUGH TO COVER THE SEEDS
19. USING A SOFT SPRAY (BARBER SPRAY BOTTLE) WET THE SOIL 
20. USE A CLEAR ZIP BAG TO LOCK THE FULL POT, SEAL THE TOP OFF USING A CLEAR TAPE
21. DO NOT MAKE ANY HOLES OR TRY TO WATER IN BETWEEN
22. KEEP THE POT IN A BRIGHT PLACE BUT NOT DIRECTELY UNDER THE SUN. 
23. MAKE HOLES IN THE PLASTIC BAG WHEN U SEE FIRST 2 TRUE LEAF EACH IN EACH SPROUT
24. SOME SEEDS SPROUT EARLY SOME TAKE TIME
25. DO NOT OPEN THE BAG IN BETWEEN, HAVE PATIENCE
26. REMOVE THE PLASTIC BAG TWO TO THREE DAYS AFTER MAKING HOLES
27. WATER LIGHTLY – USE A FUNGICIDE INITIALLY TO WARD OFF DISEASES OR DAMPING OFF (1 GRAM PER LITER OF WATER)
28. USE A BALANCED NPK 13-13-13 ( 1 GRAM PER TWO LITER OF WATER ) TO GIVE GOOD GROWTH TO THE SAPLINGS
29. SLOWLY SHIFT THE SAPLINGS TO OUTDOORS OR FROM BRIGHT PLACE TO SEMI SHADE TO FULL SUN DEPENDING ON UR WEATHER
30. THE SAPLINGS CAN BE TRANSPLANTED WHEN 4 TO 6 TRUE LEAFS HAVE COME OUT AND PLANTS IS HEALTHY
31. DO NOT BREAK THE ROOTS WHILE TRANSPLANTING TRY TO KEEP AS MANY ROOTS INTACT AS POSSIBLE
32. CHOOSE THE BEST PLACE FOR THESE WINTER FLOWERS TO GROW, SOME LIKE FULL SUN, SOME SEMI SHADE AND SOME CAN DO WELL IN SHADE, CHOOSE ACCORDINGLY
33. BEST TIME TO TRANSPLANT IS EVENINGS 
34. WATER INSTANTLY (DO NOT FLOOD)
35. GIVE FUNGICIDE AND BALANCED NPK EVERY 15 DAYS (2 GRAM PER LITER FOR BOTH – GIVE IT AS A WATERING AS WELL AS SPRAY)
36. MICRONUTRIENT MIX SPRAY IS NEEDED ONCE A MONTH AT 1 GRAM PER LITER
37. SOME VARITIES NEED PINCHING SOME GROW AS IT IS, PINCHING WILL GIVE MULTIPLE BRANCHES AND WILL ALSO MAKE THE PLANT AS PER YOUR REQUIREMENT. 
38. USE INSECTICIDES IF U SEE ANY SIGN OF INSECT INFESTATIONS 

Although petunias are tough and resilient in the garden, they can be very delicate in the first weeks of life. Start out with a dedicated seed-starting soil mix and new or sterilized planting trays. Of course, you can also start them in eggshells for easier transplanting later. Sprinkle the tiny seeds on top of the mix and gently moisten them with a spray bottle. Cover the tray with plastic wrap to retain moisture and place it in a bright place out of direct sunlight that averages around 75 F. (24 C.). Remove the plastic wrap once the seeds sprout and place the trays under lights in a cooler spot, around 65 F. (18 C.) during the day. Keep the lights about 6 inches above the tops of the plants. Use water-soluble fertilizer once every two weeks, and water the plants when the soil dries out. Transplant the seedlings into individual pots once they develop two or three true leaves. Lift out individual plants with a wooden stick or butter knife, and transplant them into potting soil. Keep the soil moist but well-drained, and return them to under the lights until it’s time to plant them outside. 

Additional Tips for Growing Petunias from Seed When starting petunia seed plants, remember that the seeds are very tiny. It’s easy to over-plant the trays, ending up with dozens of seedlings you don’t need. Sprinkle them gently on top of the soil, using only a small pinch of seeds. Petunia seed propagation only happens when they get the right amount of light. 

HENCE DON’T COVER THE SEEDS – AFTER SPRINKLING THE SEEDS USE A SOFT SPRAY TO WATER AND THEN PUT IT DIRECTLY UNDER ZIP BAG

Why a Petunia Has Yellow Leaves 

In many cases, yellow leaves on petunia plants are cultural in nature but sometimes the cause is a common disease that can be spread from cucurbits. Some information on the exact symptoms and causes can help you determine if your petunia is destined for the rubbish bin or if you can save the plant to bloom another day. Petunias need well drained soil, bright sunlight and warm temperatures for best performance. These annuals come in a variety of petal formations, providing an ideal appearance for any type of flower display. When you see leaves on petunias turning yellow, it is important to note the pattern of fading. Some patterns indicate a destructive virus that can infect other plants in the garden, as it is transmitted through the feeding activities of aphids. How can you tell if a virus is causing yellowing petunia leaves or if you simply need to water or fertilize? The word “mosaic” is a clue. Cultural Causes of Yellow Leaves on Petunia Petunias need plenty of water but they don’t like their petals and leaves to remain wet. This can cause them to wilt and occasionally discolor. Water from the base of the plant deeply and allow the soil to dry out in the top few inches before drenching the plants anew. Soil that doesn’t percolate leaves roots soggy and unhappy. Make sure your soil is a well-draining mix. Potting mixes should be 1/3RD EACH OF COCOPEAT COMPOST AND GARDEN SOIL.  The COCOPEAT will provide adequate acidity to these plants. You should perform a soil test before installing in-ground plants to ensure adequate acidity. If the test comes back too alkaline, add some lime before planting petunias. 

Nutrient Deficiencies Causing Petunias with Yellow Leaves Young petunias need plenty of nitrogen to force green leaf and shoot development. When grown in nitrogen poor soil, older leaves will turn greenish yellow or even fully yellow. Chlorosis in the veins of leaves may indicate a potassium deficiency. When a petunia with yellow leaves has necrotic spots at the veins after fading, a higher dose of potassium is required. Magnesium deficiency creates a similar condition on the newest leaves. Young leaves on sulfur deprived plants are decidedly greenish yellow. Micronutrient deficiencies that can cause yellowing petunia leaves are boron, manganese and iron. Iron is the most common deficiency in many regions. 

A soil test can help determine which nutrients need to be administered. Leaves on Petunias Turning Yellow Due to Disease The most probable cause of petunias with yellow leaves is tobacco mosaic virus. Here is where the indicating word “mosaic” can help identify the disease. A mosaic is a collage of patterns which create an image. In the case of the yellowed petunias, the mosaic shows as mottling in golden yellow. It almost seems purposeful but instead is an indication that your plant has been infected with TMV. This virus affects cucumbers, tobacco and other plants. It is transmitted through aphids but also in soil and through the hands of tobacco users. Once your petunias have the virus, there is no cure and they should be thrown out. Do not add them to the compost pile, as average temperatures are not high enough to destroy the disease and you could inadvertently spread it around your garden.

How Do I Make My Petunias Fuller? 

Preventing leggy petunias requires diligence and care. First, make sure you keep your petunias moist. If you have petunias in a smaller pot or basket, you may need to water them every day. Get into the habit of checking their moisture level each morning and give them a good drink of water. If your petunias are in the ground, then you may need to water them every three to five days. 

We all know that petunias bloom most prolifically if we deadhead the spent flowers regularly means pinch out the wilted flowers. But removing the petals isn’t enough. You also need to remove the seed if you want to learn how to stop leggy petunias. The seed pod looks like a little green (or tan if it is mature) chocolate chip nestled at the base of what looks like five skinny green leaves in a star-shaped pattern. Snip or pick off the flower below this section. 

Have you ever asked yourself, “How do I make my petunias fuller?” Preventing leggy petunias requires that you cut back / pinch the branches by ? or ½ on a regular basis. This may be hard to do, as your petunia plant may be in full bloom when you do this. You can cut back all the branches at once. You will have a full, compact blooming petunia plant in a couple of weeks. You can also cut back (by 1/4 or 1/2) just some of the branches scattered evenly throughout the plant. Those branches will regenerate and rebloom, and then you can cut back the remaining branches two weeks later. Keep up this cycle throughout the season and you will be rewarded with a full look and an abundance of splendid petunia flowers.

Troubleshooting Petunia 

Wilting Problems 

Wilting petunia flowers can mean many things. Maybe the most common (and easily fixable) is improper watering. Like lots of plants, petunias respond to a lack of water by wilting. Don’t just water them more, though! Wilting petunia flowers can also be a sign of too much water. Always check the soil around your petunias before watering – if the soil is still damp, don’t water it. Lack of sun can also lead to the wilting of petunias. Petunias prefer full sun and will produce the most flowers if they get it. They can survive in partial sun as long as they get 5 to 6 hours of direct light every day. If your petunias are in the shade, that might be your problem. 

Petunia wilting problems can also be a sign of insect or fungal issues. Aphids, budworms and slugs like to eat petunias, opening up sores in the leaves that allow disease in. Lead slugs away from your garden with bait. Spray for aphids and budworms if you see them. 

Certain diseases like white mold, gray mold, black root rot, and verticillium wilt can all lead to wilting leaves. Avoid disease by watering your petunias early in the morning so water doesn’t sit on the leaves, and planting your petunias far enough apart to allow for good air circulation. 

If your petunias contract a fungal disease, remove the affected parts of the plant and apply fungicide.